Rebus Glossary


REBUS SIGNET RINGS GLOSSARY

  • Amulet

    A pendant or charm believed to possess magical powers and offer protection, good luck, spiritual guidance, often worn to ward off evil or illness.


  • Argent

    The heraldic name for the colour/tincture white and silver.


    Assay

    A test conducted by the UK’s assay offices to determine the purity and authenticity of precious metals such as gold and silver. Rebus is registered with the London Goldsmiths’ Company and the Edinburgh Assay Office.


    Azure

    The heraldic name for the colour/tincture blue.


    Bespoke

    A custom-made item. The Rebus Bespoke Service can create something you will not find within our core range of customisable jewellery, exploring the use of gemstones, enamel, different precious metals, or more detailed engraving designs and placements.


    Bezel

    The metal rim that secures and surrounds a gemstone or engraving on a signet ring, protecting and showcasing the design.


    Brushed

    A metal finishing technique that creates a subtle, matte texture by gently abrading the surface, resulting in a satin-like appearance popular in contemporary signet rings.


    Cameo

    Cameo jewellery is a type of jewellery that features a raised carving against a contrasting background. Cameos often depict portraits, landscapes, mythological legends, nature, or animals.


    Carat (ct)

    A measure of gold purity, as well as a unity of weight of gemstones. In the US, karat is used as the American-English spelling to denote gold purity.


    Clan Badge

    A heraldic emblem used by members of Scottish clans to symbolise their allegiance and heritage. Since the 16th century, clan badges have been officially recognised by the Court of the Lord Lyon. Read more about the history of clan badges.


    Coat of Arms

    A heraldic design within a shield, often mistaken for the entire heraldic achievement. It is a unique identifier of family lineage and status, using symbolic motifs that designate rank, appointment, or royal orders, and is frequently engraved on signet rings. Read more about coats of arms.


    Crest

    Originally adorning knights’ helmets in tournaments, the crest now sits atop a coat of arms on a torse or wreath as a symbol of family identity.


    Cufflinks

    An item of jewellery designed to fasten together the sides of a shirt cuff.

    • Chain Linked: Classic English cufflinks linked by a strong chain.
    • Swivel Back: Cufflinks mounted onto a strong and sturdy swivel back mechanism.

    Die Stamping

    A manufacturing technique where a design is impressed into compressed precious metal using a steel die and hydraulic press. Rebus employs our own steel dies to blank out a flat signet ring shape, creating heirloom-quality signet rings of exceptional density and durability.


    Die Tools

    Steel tools that punch and form sheet metal with exacting pressure to create a piece of jewellery. Similar to the process used in coin minting.


    Engrailed

    A decorative edge in heraldic design featuring semi-circular indentations, often used on shields in coats of arms.


    Era Ring

    The Era Ring is a three-banded signet ring inspired by antique Romanesque rings, available either as a beveled rectangular or oval face.


    Ermine

    A white fur with black tufts.


    Face

    The flat surface of a signet ring where engravings, gemstones, or family crests are placed.


    Fineness

    A measurement of the purity of precious metals, expressed as a number, such as 999 for pure gold.


    Gift Box

    The Rebus Gift Box is designed for those who want to either fully gift or contribute towards that special someone’s ring. The gift box contains: a bronze replica signet ring, a gift card, and the Rebus Welcome Pack, which includes a personalised invitation to the Hatton Garden workshop or remote consultation.


    Gold

    A highly valued yellow precious metal, available in different karats for jewellery, such as 9ct, 14ct, and 18ct. The higher the gold content, the softer the metal. The shade of gold depends on the gold content.

    • 9ct: A gold alloy containing 37.5% pure gold. A popular and durable choice for jewellery, 9kt is the toughest and palest of the three carat golds we offer.
    • 14ct: A gold alloy containing 58.5% pure gold, offering a balance of durability and rich, gold colour.
    • 18ct: A gold alloy containing 75% pure gold, prized for its luxury and depth of colour. It is the softest of the three carat golds we offer.
    • Rose Gold: Made by adding copper to yellow gold. The higher the copper content, the stronger the red in the colour and the shade can vary from carat to carat; 9ct is usually much pinker than 18ct gold.
    • White Gold: Made by adding yellow gold with palladium, silver and copper, the colour is not white like platinum but more of a light grey steel colour. We can plate white gold with rhodium (a member of the platinum family) to enhance its colour, but rhodium plating wears off and will need re-plating.
    • Yellow Gold: Made by adding copper and silver to strengthen it, giving the jewellery longevity. The shade of the gold depends on its gold content, and 18ct generally has a richer yellow colour than 9ct.

    Gules

    The heraldic name for the colour/tincture red.


    Hallmark

    An official mark stamped onto precious metal items, certifying the article has been independently-tested and guaranteeing it confirms to all legal standards of purity or fineness. Display marks include which UK city your signet ring was hallmarked, who created it, what it is made from, and the year it was created. Read more about hallmarking.


    Hatton Garden

    London's historic jewellery quarter, dating back to medieval times, and the location of the Rebus workshop and showroom. To visit us, book an appointment; we also welcome walk-ins.


    Hypoallergenic

    Jewellery made from materials that minimise the risk of allergic reactions, often free of nickel and other irritants.


    Initials

    The first letters of a person's name. A popular engraving choice to personalise signet rings. Monograms are a more stylised design combining two or more letters.


    Intaglio

    Intaglio is a type of engraved jewellery that features a recessed image or design carved into a gemstone or precious metal. The word "intaglio" comes from the Italian word intagliare, which means "to carve".


    Keeper Ring

    A companion ring, originally designed to protect the stone of an engagement ring. The Keeper Ring is now an enduring symbol of protection. Made to fit the ring of your choice, be it oval, landscape, or round - or worn alone.

    • Eternity Keeper Ring: Inspired by the companion ring of Queen Charlotte, who wore a band set with diamonds above her engagement ring from King George III. The Eternity Keeper Ring is available in a choice of different coloured pavé-set diamonds.

    Memento Mori

    Translated from Latin as ‘remember you must die’, Memento Mori are pieces of mourning jewellery influenced by classical Ancient Roman culture and popularised in the Victorian era. The skull is a commonly used symbol. Read more about Memento Mori jewellery.


    MOHS Scale

    A scale used to measure the hardness of minerals and gemstones, from 1 (soft) to 10 (diamond-hard).


    Monogram

    A stylised design combining two or more letters, typically engraved onto signet rings for a personalised touch.


    Or

    The heraldic name for the colour/tincture yellow and gold.


    Pavé

    A jewellery-setting technique where small gemstones are set closely together, creating a surface that resembles paved stones. Found on Rebus Diamond-Set Pendants and also available as a bespoke embellishment.


    Pendant Neklace

    A piece of jewellery worn around the neck, consisting of a chain and an object hanging from it. The Rebus collection of pendants is available in oval, round, and shield shapes, or as a stone-set or diamond-set pendant, with customisable chain length.


    Personalised

    A custom design made to meet someone’s individual requirements. Each Rebus piece can be personalised with engraving; family crests, initials, monograms, or talismanic symbols.


    Pinky

    The little finger, where a signet ring is traditionally worn for a classic, timeless look.


    Platinum

    A naturally white precious metal prized for strength and luxury in fine jewellery. At 95% purity, platinum is hypoallergenic, and will never tarnish.


    Precious Gemstone

    A naturally-occurring, precious mineral, cut and polished for use in fine jewellery. Rebus jewellery can be made bespoke by the inclusion of these rare and valuable stones, such as diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and sapphires.

    • Diamonds: Renowned for its brilliance and durability, the diamond is the hardest natural substance on Earth, making it a timeless symbol of strength and eternal love.
    • Rubies: Known for its deep red hue, the ruby is a rare and captivating gemstone, often associated with passion, protection, and vitality.
    • Emeralds: Distinguished by its vibrant green colour, the emerald is a treasured stone symbolising growth, renewal, and prosperity.
    • Sapphires: Most famously found in a rich blue, sapphires are versatile gemstones representing wisdom, loyalty, and serenity.

    Purpure

    The heraldic name for the colour/tincture purple.


    Rebus

    Rebus comes from a Latin phase: ‘Non verbis, sed rebus’, which roughly translates to: To rely on pictures, rather than words to express ideas. Read more about Rebus and our story.


    Resin Replica

    A model made from resin that replicates a jewellery design before the final piece is crafted. A Rebus Signet Ring is a lifetime purchase, and with this in mind we offer samples in resin to allow you to experience at home how our signet ring fits and looks on your hand. Order your fully-refundable resin sample.


    Ring Size

    A measurement used to ensure a ring fits comfortably on the wearer’s finger, typically based on diameter or circumference. Explore our Ring Size Guide to calculate your best fit. We use British alphabetical or Wheatsheaf sizing, but international customers can use our ring size conversion chart.

    • Inside Diameter: The measurement of the internal width of a ring.
    • Inside Circumference: The measurement of the inner circle of a ring.

    Sable

    The heraldic name for the colour/tincture black.


    Seal Engraving

    Otherwise known as intaglio, this is a hand-engraving technique that involves carving your personalised design in reverse into metal or stone to create detailed 3D impressions.


    Semi-Precious Gemstone

    A naturally-occurring, semi-precious mineral, cut and polished for use in fine jewellery. Rebus Stone-Set Signet Rings and Pendants use bloodstone, cornelian, lapis lazuli, black onyx, sardonyx, hematite, and tiger's eye.

    • Lapis Lazuli: Treasured since antiquity, lapis lazuli is known for its vibrant deep blue colour, often flecked with golden pyrite and streaked with white calcite. With a hardness of 5 on the MOHS scale, it requires careful handling to avoid scratches or damage.
    • Sardonyx: A layered variety of onyx, sardonyx features bands of contrasting colours, such as petrol blue with black or creamy white with amber. With a hardness of 6–7 on the MOHS scale, it is ideal for engraving.
    • Black Onyx: With a smooth, deep black hue and a hardness of 6.5–7 on the MOHS scale, black onyx is durable for jewellery engraving.
    • Bloodstone: A variety of Chalcedony, bloodstone is dark green or bluish-green, flecked with red jasper reminiscent of blood drops. With a hardness of 6.5–7 on the MOHS scale, it is durable for jewellery.
    • Cornelian: With a rich red to brown hue, cornelian owes its colour to iron oxide. With a hardness of 6.5–7 on the MOHS scale, it has long been prized for its durability. Favoured by the Romans for signet rings and seals, its smooth surface resists sticking to wax, making it ideal for correspondence.
    • Hematite: A metallic grey to black with a mirror-like lustre, hematite is composed primarily of iron oxide. With a hardness of 5.5–6.5 on the Mohs scale, it is relatively soft but remains a popular choice for jewellery.
    • Tiger’s Eye: Golden-brown with a silky, chatoyant sheen, tiger's eye is a variety of quartz prized for its unique striped appearance. With a hardness of 6.5–7 on the Mohs scale, it is durable for jewellery.

    Shank

    The shank is the part of a ring that encircles the finger, also known as a band. For signet rings, the inner shank also includes the flat surface underneath the face of the ring.


    Shoulders

    The part of a ring connecting the band encircling the finger to the setting at the top. Rebus Signet Rings can offer bespoke engraving or stone-setting to compliment the main engraving.


    Sigillography

    The study of seals, specifically those attached to historical documents.


    Signet Ring

    A signet ring features a flat surface, often engraved with a personal design, family crest, or initials. Traditionally used to seal documents with wax, the signet ring has evolved into a symbol of identity, status, and heritage. Often worn on the pinky or ring finger, it blends tradition with personal expression.

    • Oxford Oval 55 Signet Ring: The Rebus Oxford 55 shoulders are broad enough to carry the most intricate decorative carvings and whilst being one of the heaviest signet rings you will find on the market, we feel it strikes the perfect balance of style and substance.
    • Oxford Court Signet Ring: A slimmer, lighter weight design of our Oxford 55 range, the Oxford Court Signet Ring features pared-down scalloped shoulders and a gently-curved interior shank and head.
    • Cushion 55 Signet Ring: The Rebus Cushion 55, a mainstay of the 55 signet ring range, is a beautifully proportioned ring that provides a bold rectangle canvas for your design.
    • Marquise Signet Ring: Inspired by the classic diamond cut, this sophisticated Marquisedesign is perfect for engraving your personal family crest or symbol.
    • Landscape Oval Signet Ring: The orientation of the Landscape Oval is an ideal canvas to accommodate crests and symbols that may stretch out left to right.
    • Shield Engrailed Signet Ring: The Rebus Engrailed Shield Signet Rings are big and bold pieces inspired from the ancient shapes of combat shields, used to protect but also to identify.
    • Shield Heater Signet Ring: One of the earliest uses of jewellery was for the symbolic protection of the body and spirit. This Heater Shield Signet Ring is inspired from the medieval shapes of combat armour, used as a physical defence against harm.
    • Century Ring: A shape inspired by the elegant period of 1920s Art Deco, bold with a soft curved scalloped edge. The Rebus Century Ring is becoming a popular choice.
    • Portrait Ring: Our Portrait Signet Ring revisits a classic late Victorian design, its distinctive bold frame makes for a strong and angular silhouette.

    Silver

    A soft, white, lustrous precious metal known for its high reflectivity, often alloyed with copper for strength in jewellery. Sterling silver, with 92.5% silver content, is the standard used in high-quality pieces like those crafted at Rebus.


    Stone Set

    Referring to the addition of a semi-precious gemstone, carefully set into the design of a ring.


    Stone Carving

    A meticulous process using rotating wheels and abrasive diamond pastes to shape stones for jewellery. A skill mastered by only a handful of UK craftsmen, including here at Rebus.


    Surface Engraving

    A hand-engraving technique using gravers to cut fine lines into metal, bringing designs to life with intricate detail, without the deep carving you see in seal engraving. It is the same technique used by the traditional (now gone) banknote engravers.


    Talismans

    A symbol believed to hold protective or mystical powers, often engraved on signet rings. Rebus offers an extensive online database of talismans, allowing customers to find inspiration for their personalised engraving.


    Tarnish

    A natural reaction on the surface of metals like sterling silver, causing dullness or darkening due to exposure to oxygen and moisture. Easily removed with silver dip or polishing cloths, tarnish can be minimised with proper aftercare and storage of your Rebus pieces.


    Torse

    In heraldry, a torse or wreath is a twisted roll of fabric laid about the top of the helmet and the base of the crest. It has the dual purpose of masking the join between helm and crest, and of holding the mantling in place.


    Trunk Show

    A special event where a brand showcases its collection in a pop-up location. Rebus has recently visited cities like New York, Los Angeles, San Francisco, and Edinburgh. Keep updated on future trunk show events.


    Vert

    The heraldic name for the colour/tincture green.


    Wax Impression aka the seal

    A traditional method used to create a detailed imprint of a signet ring’s design in sealing wax, historically applied to documents as a means of authentication. Each Rebus Signet Ring is presented with a wax impression of your artwork, as well as a stick of wax for you to take your own impressions.


    Wedding Band

    A timeless symbol of commitment, a wedding band is a circular ring, traditionally exchanged during a wedding ceremony.

    • Court Profile: A classic court-shaped ring with softly rounded edges on both the inside and outside. This design lends itself to hand-carved patterns and messages to add that bespoke touch.
    • Flat Court Profile: A sleek design with an inner profile that features a gentle curve for comfort, and an outside flat court profile.